Forget the Cedars — Walk Hwasun Gotjawal, a Forest Born From Lava

When people think of a forest trail in Jeju, a densely planted fir forest often comes to mind first — but Jeju is also said to hold a forest with a completely different character: gotjawal. Hwasun Gotjawal, located in the Hwasun-ri area of Andeok-myeon, Seogwipo, is said to be not a forest planted and tended by human hands, but one that grew on its own, with trees, vines, and ferns tangled together over the jagged terrain left behind when lava once flowed and hardened here. If Saryeoni Forest Trail, which GYULI introduced before, is a planted trail lined with rows of firs, Hwasun Gotjawal is said to hold onto the uneven lava terrain almost exactly as it hardened, making it feel closer to a primeval forest — and the walking experience is said to feel quite different from the start. Since Jeju itself is an island formed by volcanic activity, forests grown over this kind of lava terrain are often described as a uniquely Jeju form of nature, rarely found elsewhere. Today GYULI will walk through what Hwasun Gotjawal Ecological Trail is said to be like, and why it's described as having a different charm from Saryeoni. I can't confidently pin down the exact course sections or how long it takes, so I'll stick to passing along what's said about it as honestly as I can.

What is gotjawal, and why is it said to exist only in Jeju?

The word gotjawal itself is said to come from Jeju dialect. It's said to combine 'got,' meaning a forest where trees and vines grow tangled together, with 'jawal,' meaning ground covered in gravel and rock — and the name alone hints at what kind of ground this forest stands on. Long ago, lava flowing from Hallasan or an oreum is said to have covered the land without hardening smoothly, instead solidifying into a jumble of rocks large and small. This kind of roughly hardened lava terrain is said to have long been considered useless land, too difficult to farm or build on — but ironically, because it was left untouched by human hands, trees and plants are said to have grown tangled together on their own, forming the distinctive forest that exists today. Forests formed over this kind of uneven lava terrain are said to remain in several spots across Jeju, and among them, Hwasun Gotjawal is said to sit in the Hwasun-ri area of Andeok-myeon, Seogwipo, maintained as a walkable course known as the Ecological Trail.

🍊 More Photos, via GYULI

A tangled primeval forest, unlike Saryeoni's fir trees

Accounts from people who've actually walked Hwasun Gotjawal often note that the forest's expression is quite different from Saryeoni Forest Trail, with its rows of straight firs. If Saryeoni is described as a planted forest that people sowed and tended, Hwasun Gotjawal is said to be a forest where evergreen broadleaf trees like ring-cupped oak and deciduous trees that shed their leaves by season grow mixed together. Vines and ferns are said to work their way into the cracks between rocks, so rather than neat, individual trees, the impression is said to be closer to a primeval forest where everything grows tangled together. Underfoot, it's said that the path isn't just dirt — in some sections, moss-covered lava rocks of all sizes are said to be exposed as they are, and this jagged rock terrain is often named as the single biggest thing that sets Hwasun Gotjawal apart from other forest trails. With sunlight filtering unevenly through the trees, moss blanketing the rocks, and vines working through the gaps, many accounts describe the feeling of walking through a forest barely touched by human hands.

What to know before walking the Ecological Trail

Hwasun Gotjawal Ecological Trail is said to be laid out as a course that mixes wooden deck sections, dirt paths, and stretches where the bare rock is exposed. The deck sections are said to be relatively easy to walk, but on sections where the jagged rock is exposed, many accounts say you need to watch your footing carefully, so sneakers or hiking shoes with good grip are worth bringing. Because the gotjawal terrain is said to have sumgol — gaps in the rock where underground air moves — cool air is said to rise in summer and relatively warmer air in winter, and reviews often mention that the air inside the forest feels different depending on the season. That said, the exact course length or how long it takes to finish is said to vary depending on which section you walk, so it's hard to say in advance that a certain amount of time will be enough. Some are said to walk a short loop and head back out, while others take their time going deeper into the forest, so it's best to choose your section based on your condition and schedule that day. Given how damp the terrain is, rocks and tree roots are said to get slippery after rain, which is worth keeping in mind too. It's said to be less widely known than Saryeoni Forest Trail, so reviews often note it can be walked relatively quietly — making it a course described as well suited to those who want to enjoy the forest away from the crowds.

🍊 Real Photos, via GYULI