From Gonae Port to Gwangnyeong — Walk Olle Route 16 from the Coast to the Midlands

Walk through the Jeju Olle routes one by one and you start to notice that each course carries its own texture of scenery. The route GYULI is introducing today, Olle Route 16, is said to stand out for just how distinct that shift in scenery is. Said to run from Gonae Port in Aewol-eup, Jeju City to Gwangnyeong-ri, this course is introduced as one that begins along the coast, hugging the sea, then gradually shifts into midland village scenery the further you walk. Being able to meet both the coast and the midlands within a single course is said to be one of the reasons Olle Route 16 comes up so often. Somewhere along the way, it's said to pass near the Hangpaduri Anti-Mongol Fortress Site, known as the place where Sambyeolcho resisted the Mongols to the end in the late Goryeo period. GYULI has already covered Hangpaduri itself in a separate piece, so today I'll focus on the journey of Route 16 as it passes by the site, rather than retelling that history. I'll be careful not to confidently pin down the exact distance or how long it takes, so I'll stick to passing along what's said about it as honestly as I can.

Gonae Port, Where the Coastal Walk Begins

Gonae Port, the starting point of Olle Route 16, is said to be a small port on the coast of Aewol-eup. Starting from a quiet port where boats come and go is said to shape the first impression of this course — less like a bustling tourist spot, more the calm atmosphere particular to a fishing village. Once you leave the port, the course is introduced as continuing along the coastline for a while. The sea is said to stay in view on your left for much of the walk, so early on you can expect the kind of open, sweeping coastal views typical of Jeju's shoreline Olle routes. Since the name Gonae itself is said to refer to a coastal village, this stretch is said to alternate between fishing-village alleys and glimpses of the sea. That said, even along the coast, waves can come in close depending on the weather and tides, so it's worth being extra careful on windy days. Taken on its own, this coastal stretch might feel similar to other coastal Olle routes on Jeju, but GYULI thinks the real charm of this course lies in the shift in scenery that follows.

Passing Near Hangpaduri, Into the Midlands

Once you pass the coastal stretch that continues from Gonae Port, Olle Route 16 is said to gradually turn inland, toward the midlands. Somewhere along this stretch, the course is said to pass near the Hangpaduri Anti-Mongol Fortress Site, known as the place where Sambyeolcho held out against the Mongols to the very end in the late Goryeo period. GYULI has already written a separate piece just on Hangpaduri, so if you're curious about the site itself, that piece is worth a look — today I'll focus on how the course unfolds as it passes near it. Once you leave the coast and head into the midlands, the scenery is said to change noticeably. Instead of the sound of waves, fields and low oreum ridgelines are said to start coming into view. The steps that once followed the sea shift, almost without noticing, into Jeju's characteristic midland countryside — an impression that's often mentioned by those who've walked this course. Many reviews note that the coastal and midland stretches feel entirely different to walk — the coast offering wide-open openness, the midlands feeling cozier and quieter by comparison. It's worth slowing down a little as you pass near the site; it's not a flashy sight, but that very quietness is said to shape the mood of this stretch.

Finishing the Walk at Gwangnyeong-ri

Olle Route 16 is said to end at Gwangnyeong-ri. Gwangnyeong-ri is introduced as a midland village on the outskirts of Jeju City, and the fact that the course ends not at a major tourist spot but at a quiet village is said to be part of what characterizes this route. Reviews often describe the finish as understated rather than flashy, more a quiet wrapping-up of the walk than a grand finale. Starting at Gonae Port, passing near Hangpaduri, and ending at Gwangnyeong-ri — stringing together Jeju's contrasting landscapes, from coast to midland, within a single course is said to be a reason this route comes up often among those aiming to complete the full Olle trail. How difficult the course feels overall, and its exact distance, is said to vary depending on your pace and how much you rest along the way, so please understand I can't confidently claim a set distance will be enough. That said, the mix of coastal and midland stretches is often introduced as making for a course you can walk without getting bored. Some of the midland stretches are said to run through farm paths with little shade, so if you're planning to walk in summer, bring a hat and plenty of water. It's also worth checking public transit options back from Gwangnyeong-ri in advance, so you can walk with peace of mind.

🍊 Real Photos, via GYULI