What's Sabong Nakjo? Climb Sarabong and See for Yourself
an oreum that earned its name from a single sunset
Talk about traveling in Jeju long enough, and Seongsan Ilchulbong's sunrise or Udo's morning light comes up constantly. But sunset spots close to downtown Jeju City seem comparatively less talked about. Among them, Sarabong is said to sit right beside Geonip-dong, Jeju City's old downtown, meaning you can climb an oreum without having to travel far at all. Because you don't need a tour bus or a long drive — just a short trip from downtown Jeju City — it's said to be an oreum that feels closer and more familiar to Jeju residents than to tourists. Today I want to slowly unpack what kind of place Sarabong is, and why people talk about its sunset as something especially special.
Sarabong, a low oreum standing right beside Jeju City's old downtown
Sarabong is an oreum located in Geonip-dong, Jeju City, said to be not far at all from Jeju Port or Dongmun Market. Unlike most oreum, which tend to sit out on the edges of town or far out in open fields, Sarabong's biggest distinguishing feature is said to be how directly it touches the city center. That's probably why it's often described less as a tourist attraction and more like a neighborhood hill out someone's back door — and in fact, the path up to the summit is said to be a gentle course, not a rugged one. Since walking slowly from the entrance to the top is said not to take very long, being able to visit almost as an easy morning walk is said to be one of Sarabong's charms.
From the summit, downtown Jeju City, Jeju Port, and the sea beyond are all said to come into view at once. With the city's buildings, ships coming and going from the port, and the ocean stretching out beyond it all captured in a single scene, it's often described as offering a view of 'city and sea together' that's hard to find at other oreum. As the sun begins to sink low, this scenery is said to take on an entirely different face — and quite a few people are said to deliberately time their visits for late afternoon just to catch that moment.
Sabong Nakjo, a name earned through sunset alone
Sarabong's sunset has long been called by its own name, Sabong Nakjo, it's said. The name is said to combine the 'Sa' from Sarabong with 'nakjo,' meaning evening sunset — and it's also said to have been counted among Yeongju Sipgyeong, the ten scenic views said to represent old Jeju. That suggests the sunset seen from Sarabong was never just 'a pretty sky today,' but a view striking enough to be passed down by word of mouth over a long stretch of time. I find it quite special that a single name can hold that much history inside it.
One reason Sabong Nakjo is said to be especially beautiful is that the sun is said to set out over the sea. Watching the sun sink below the horizon while the sky and sea turn red together, comfortably from the summit of an oreum not far from downtown, is said to be one of Sarabong's unique charms. On top of that, as the moment overlaps with the time Jeju City's lights begin turning on one by one, there are said to be moments when the red of the sky and the yellow glow of the city can be seen together. It's said to be a common sight to see people setting up tripods early, waiting to capture just that brief window.
The color of a setting sun might look similar anywhere, but a view where a city and the sea unfold together beneath it is something hard to find outside of Sarabong.
— 🍊 GYULIHearing about Sabong Nakjo made me wonder whether Jeju people long ago once stood in roughly this same spot, watching this same sunset. These days we hold up a phone camera to capture it, but back then, people probably just took it in with their own eyes and held it in their hearts. Even as the times have changed, the instinct to stop and pause in front of a sunset probably hasn't changed all that much — and that thought made climbing Sarabong feel a little more special to me.
Why it's also beloved as a walking course
Sarabong isn't loved for its sunset alone, it's said. The gentle path leading up to the summit is also well known as a walking course, and it's often said to be visited more by nearby residents than by tourists. Some are said to climb it lightly in the early morning to stretch out, while others are said to stop by in the evening after a day's work just to catch some air — and what struck me was hearing that, regardless of season or time of day, there's said to always be someone walking this path. Having a walking trail this close to nature right in the middle of downtown seems like it would be a genuinely precious part of daily life for people living in Jeju City.
Near the summit stands a pavilion said to be called Saradae, and pausing there to cool off and take in the view is said to be talked about as another small pleasure of a Sarabong walk. It's said to be fine not to push all the way to the summit either — walking partway up the slope and back down works too — so rather than forcing a full climb, it might be nicer to simply walk at whatever pace suits how you're feeling that day. Sarabong as a tourist spot is one thing, but for me, the story of it as a path that's carried the footsteps of local residents for so long is the part that stays with me more.
GYULI's Tip · To properly catch Sabong Nakjo, it's said to help to head up to the summit ahead of time and find a spot before the sun starts setting. Sunset times shift with the seasons, so it's worth checking ahead before you go.