Jarium Isn't Just Mulhoe — There's Also Gangoe and Salted Jeotgal
damselfish aged and fermented
When it comes to summer jaridom on Jeju, many people think of mulhoe first. But beyond that cold-broth dish, there's said to be another way locals prepare the same damselfish: jarium-gangoe. Unlike mulhoe, which is ladled into broth, gangoe is tossed together with vegetables in a spicy-tangy seasoning with no broth at all — a completely different method, it's said. On top of that, there's also jarium-jeot, made by salting and aging the fish over a long stretch of time. Between these three, it becomes clear just how many different ways a single fish like jaridom can show up on a Jeju table. Today, let's look at jaridom's other side — the tossed and the aged versions, distinct from mulhoe.
Jarium-Gangoe: Tossed Without Any Broth
Jarium-gangoe has 'hoe' in its name, but it isn't eaten ladled into broth like mulhoe. Cleaned jaridom is finely sliced bone and all, then tossed with a thick, broth-free seasoning made from gochujang or doenjang mixed with vinegar, garlic, and vegetables, it's said. Where mulhoe is a dish eaten by the spoonful with its broth, gangoe is closer to a tossed salad you'd pick up with chopsticks. The key is said to be working the seasoning evenly into the fish until it clings without any liquid pooling, and without the broth to dilute it, the seasoning's flavor is said to come through noticeably stronger and bolder.
The vegetables used alongside it are often similar to mulhoe's — cucumber, minari, perilla leaf, chives — but the way they're cut and tossed is said to differ. Gangoe tends to use thicker-cut vegetables to preserve their crunch, and everything is tossed together by hand so the seasoning soaks into the vegetables as deeply as the fish, a trait often cited as distinctive. That's why jarium-gangoe is often introduced as a dish delivering a punchier, more concentrated spicy-tangy hit in a single bite than mulhoe. It's said to be enjoyed mixed into rice or served as a side with drinks.
Without any broth, the seasoning in gangoe is said to hit so much harder — people say it's basically a different dish from mulhoe altogether.
— 🍊 GYULIJarium-Jeot: A Different Path — Long Fermentation
Beyond tossing or ladling fresh-caught jaridom, there's also jarium-jeot, made by salting the fish and letting it ferment over a long stretch of time. Cleaned jaridom is layered with salt and packed into a jar or container to age, it's said, and the longer it ferments, the softer the flesh becomes and the deeper its distinctively salty, savory flavor is said to grow. If mulhoe and gangoe are dishes meant to be enjoyed fresh within a single summer, jarium-jeot is closer to a preserved food — made by taking the time to ferment it so it can be kept and eaten over a much longer stretch.
In Jeju's coastal villages, it's said that when a big catch of jaridom couldn't all be eaten at once, salting some of it away to bring to the table little by little became a naturally passed-down piece of wisdom. Fermented jarium-jeot is said to be served as a side dish on its own, or tossed together with other greens and vegetables. Given its strong salty, savory flavor, it's often introduced as a side meant to be eaten in small spoonfuls alongside rice.
One Fish, Three Very Different Paths
In the end, a single fish like jaridom has given rise to three quite different methods on Jeju: mulhoe, gangoe, and jeotgal. Mulhoe is enjoyed cold, ladled into a tangy broth; gangoe is tossed spicy-tangy with no broth at all; jeotgal is salted and left to ferment for a long stretch. Each is said to carry its own distinct character. The same ingredient transforms entirely depending on whether it's ladled, tossed, or aged — and that range is said to be part of why jaridom is counted as one of Jeju's signature summer fish.
Gangoe and jeotgal are said to be relatively less well known than mulhoe, but they're still said to be regularly made at local eateries and home kitchens across Jeju. Gangoe is often introduced as a good fit for those who enjoy a bold, spicy kick, while jeotgal suits those drawn to a deep, salty, savory flavor. The exact seasoning ratio or fermentation time is said to vary from kitchen to kitchen and restaurant to restaurant, so it's hard to pin down a single standard — but that variation is also said to be a sign of how much individual craftsmanship still goes into each version.
How to Properly Enjoy Jaridom on Jeju
If you visit Jeju and only try jarium-mulhoe, you may only be experiencing half of what this fish has to offer. Since the same fish leaves such a different impression depending on whether it's tossed or fermented, trying gangoe or jeotgal as well is said to be well worth the time if you have it. That said, both gangoe and jeotgal are said to be served at fewer places than mulhoe, so it's worth seeking out restaurants that specialize in local Jeju food or side-dish stalls at traditional markets. Exactly when and where you can find them is said to depend on the season and circumstances, so it's best to ask around locally when you're on Jeju.
GYULI's Tip · Jarium-gangoe is said to taste best eaten right after it's tossed, while the vegetables are still crisp. Jarium-jeot grows more savory the longer it ferments, but also saltier, so it's worth trying just a small amount first to see if it suits your taste.