From the Sea to the Gotjawal Forest — Walk Olle Route 13, Yongsu to Jeoji

If you're the type to walk the Jeju Olle routes in order, you're probably curious what comes right after Route 12. The route GYULI is introducing today, Olle Route 13, is said to be exactly that next stretch. It's said to start in a village called Yongsu-ri and continue on to Jeoji-ri, and what makes this stretch stand out in particular is that the scenery is said to shift completely over the course of the walk. You're said to start out with the sea by your side, and the further you walk, the more the course is said to move inland, eventually leading into a stretch of gotjawal, the distinctive forest terrain found on Jeju. Being able to walk a coastal stretch and a forest stretch back to back is said to be why this route often comes up as one of the Jeju Olle courses with the most noticeable change in scenery. That said, I'll be careful not to confidently pin down the exact total distance, how long it takes, or the detailed path, so I'll stick to passing along what's said about it as honestly as I can.

Starting in Yongsu-ri, with the sea by your side

Olle Route 13 is said to begin in a village called Yongsu-ri. It's said to be the village that connects to where Route 12, introduced earlier, comes to an end, so for those walking the routes in order, it naturally becomes the next starting line, almost like a relay. Near the start, the course is said to run close to the sea for a stretch, letting you walk with the quiet scenery of a coastal village and the sound of the waves for company. Like other coastal courses, the wide-open sea view early on is said to be one of the draws of this stretch. As the course continues, though, it's said to gradually pull away from the coast and shift inland, and this shift is said to be one of the points that comes up often among those who've walked Route 13. Knowing in advance that this isn't a route that stays by the sea the whole way, and that the mood at the start and the end is said to be quite different, might make the walk more interesting. There's also word of stretches that pass through the alleys and stone field walls typical of a coastal village, so it may be worth taking in the everyday scenery of a Jeju seaside village along the way.

The air that changes as you enter the gotjawal

The feature most often mentioned about Olle Route 13 is said to be that it passes through a stretch of gotjawal. Gotjawal is a distinctive forest terrain said to be found only on Jeju, described as a tangle of trees, vines, and rocks growing together. As the route leaves the coast and heads into the mid-mountain area, it's said to lead into this gotjawal stretch, and many reviews mention the shift feeling dramatic — going from a windswept coastal path straight into dense forest shade. Being a forested stretch, there's said to be more shade here than on the coastal section, and the ground underfoot is said to be Jeju's characteristic rocky path, so comfortable walking shoes are worth bringing. The damp, cool air of the gotjawal is said to feel quite different from the salty coastal breeze, and quite a few reviews mention that even within a single day's walk, each stretch can feel like a completely different trip. There's also word that birdsong carries especially clearly between the trees, offering a different kind of quiet from the coastal stretch.

For those continuing on right after Route 12

For those walking the Jeju Olle routes in order, Route 13 is said to be introduced as a stretch that picks up almost immediately, before the impression of Route 12 has even faded. Since it naturally connects to the previous route, some people are said to set aside a full day and walk both routes back to back. That said, walking both in a single day can be demanding, so it's worth planning around your own condition and that day's weather rather than pushing through. Along the way, you're said to be able to follow the Olle Trail's usual ribbon and arrow markers, though it's worth paying a little extra attention to the markers around the stretch where the route shifts from coast to mid-mountain. The gotjawal section is said to be relatively easy to walk even in summer thanks to the tree cover, while the forest path is also said to get slippery after rain, so it's worth being especially careful after wet weather. Bring plenty of water and a light snack, and checking the latest official guide for the exact route or any recent detours before you go is said to be the surest bet. Whether walking alone or with company, many reviews say it's rare to find a course where the start and end feel this different, so it's worth adding to your list.

🍊 Real Photos, via GYULI